It might be the capital of Scotland, the home of vibrant festivals and the seat of Scottish power, but there’s something about the cold cobbles, the wind-battered stones and the towering castle that make the hilly city of Edinburgh still feel like a fortress atop an enchanted mountain.
Tourists duck and dive under towering bridges, they tumble down treacherously steep steps and feel the wind whip their noses and cheeks as if they were standing on the battlements.
Locals are fiercely protective of their city as if they were guarding some hidden treasure. But look hard enough, and you can find the city’s secrets, its boutique shops, it’s achingly hip, its enchanting walks and cosiest whiskey joints.
Perched on an extinct, Edinburgh Castle dominates the city’s skyline and the 16th century building is Scotland’s most popular tourist. You’ll have to book months in advance to see the famous Scottish Military Tattoo, and extravaganza of fireworks, pipes and dancing at the castle. But for a peek at the ordinary lives of citizens of Edinburgh, Real Mary King’s Close is a hidden treat, just off the Royal Mile. Venture underground to a secret warren of hidden 17th century streets, led by a character from the period. See how residents suffered from the plague, wicked deals and plots that took place in the shadowy close. The museum is a treat for children, fascinating for adults, and a warm and welcome respite if the Scottish heavens have opened.
Must Be Seen At
Edinburgh’s hippest are mostly in the New Town, close to Princes Street. But one exception is the swanky Ondine, an award-winning fish just a short skip. The glass-fronted upstairs is perfect for people watching, while supping an Edinburgh Gin Daisy.
Fresh, local and zingy fish dishes change regularly, but might include Ondine salmon with homemade cucumber pickle, silky fish soup with gruyere croutons, or a moist and grilled sea-bass. Begin or end the evening next door at the fashionista-dominated G&V Royal Mile (formerly Missoni) for their signature drought Prosecco.
In the heart of the Old Town, Edinburgh’s Grassmarket district has the city’s best independent merchants, designers and artisans. Wind your way down the Castle Wynd or Upper Bow steps and spend an hour browsing the delis and boutiques. Highlights include Demijohn’s handmade and liquors dubbed by the owner as a “liquid Deli”, Armstrong’s Vintage clothes emporium for ’50’s ra-ra skirts, 60’s minis and 70’s prints, and the Old Town bookshop, for antique books, maps and prints.
Must Chill Out
One of the city’s most up-and-coming districts, and home of the Royal Yacht Britannia is Leith, Edinburgh’s port. On a sunny evening, young professionals and artists fill the quayside.
Must See The View
It’s not for the faint-hearted, but a brisk stroll up dormant volcano Arthur’s Seat will put hairs on your chest. The mini-mountain stands in the middle of Holy rood Park and is said to have been the mythical location of King Arthur’s palace, Camelot. It’s a sweaty 40-minute hike to the top, and you’ll find yourself shedding the scarves and cagoules you wore while strolling round the city, but the views of the city and the sea from the top of the mound are breathtaking.