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YOU KNOW them as masters of the kitchen in some of
the area's most popular restaurants. But what do Lancaster County chefs
cook on their days off?
Do they bring their restaurant skills home, or do they make nothing more complicated than a ham sandwich?
We asked some culinary wizards those very questions. And their responses?
"I
was tempted to say ‘as little as pos- sible,' " said Paul Lombardo, 56,
executive chef at Lombardo's Italian-American Restaurant, on Harrisburg
Pike, when quizzed about what he likes to cook in his own kitchen.
"A lot of times, it's a chicken dish. We try to eat healthy," he said of himself and his girlfriend.
Whether it's chicken, lasagna or a good old-fashioned steak, here's what local cooks had to say about their day-off cuisine.
Cooking for the kids - six of them, in fact - keeps John Martin busy on his day off at his home near Marietta.
But that's OK, said the executive chef at the Cameron Estate Inn, Mount Joy.
"When I'm off, I definitely cook for the family," said Martin, 48. "Monday's our special day."
A Virginia native, he credits family talent for his own. "My grandmother was the greatest Southern cook I ever met!"
The
Martin brood is made up of daughters Kia, 17, who helps Martin at the
Cameron Estate kitchen in prep work; Gabrielle, 14, who helps in
banquet serving at the inn; Caitlin, 9, and Mykala, 5.
Then
there are sons Johnnie Jr., 16, a star on the Donegal High School
football and track teams, and Tyler, 13, who plays midget football for
Donegal Middle School.
Yes, that adds up to a lot of hungry.
Meatloaf and chicken fingers are two favorites in the Martin kitchen, "but don't get me wrong - they like lasagna!" Martin said.
Yet watching their father cook is a learning experience for the Martin children, especially the younger ones.
"I
try to give my kids, as they're growing up, an ideal about food," the
chef said. He's been known to wear his Cameron Estate white chef's coat
around the house and will garnish meals, on occasion, "to show the
little kids" in the family "that this is what we do."
Ingredients
are kept simple, but flavorful. Even the humble macaroni and cheese
will feature Jarlsberg, a cheese of Norwegian origin. Sometimes,
something like Sockeye Salmon will show up on the home menu. And it's a
big day in the household when Martin makes his Southern-influenced
pineapple upside-down cake, which requires a sleight-of-hand - and a
bang of the pan on the kitchen counter! - to unveil it just right.
"They
know I like flavor!" said Martin, citing as an example his Jamaican
Pepper Steak, which Johnnie Jr. says is his favorite.
DANIELLA WARD, executive chef at FENZ Restaurant, near Franklin & Marshall
College, has a couple of secrets regarding home cooking.
"Personally, my favorite food group is sandwiches," she admitted. Plus, "my guilty pleasure is ordering sushi."
Ward,
26, has been with the restaurant since its opening in 2007. There, she
creates such fare as Roasted Poussin Chicken and Grilled Ahi Tuna, but
in her own city kitchen, it's "anything quick and easy."
Though she said that "it sounds sad that sandwiches are what I eat the most," there's an upside.
"I can turn anything into a sandwich!"
And
not just ham and cheese on white. Her favorite creation: a sandwich
made from "turkey, ham, hummus, sun-dried tomato, pesto, avocado and
Swiss ... grilled like a grilled cheese."
Ward also enjoys
getting together with food-minded friends; together they'll create
multiple courses for a memorable meal. "If somebody wants to cook for
me," however, she said, "absolutely!"
"I definitely cook at
home. I love it," said Quinn Hacker, executive chef at Reflections. The
28-year-old Hacker, who has been at the longtime Leola restaurant for
1½ years, likes "comfort food - stews, baked pastas, things you put in
[while you] just keep doing other things." He's also fond of pork and
sauerkraut.
"There's no stress in making any of them," Hacker
said, and that's the point - at Reflections he crafts such dishes as
Pan Seared Day Boat Scallops with roasted garlic risotto. Nothing like
that finds its way into Hacker's kitchen at home, where he cooks for
his girlfriend.
"Just keep it simple," he advises would-be home cooks. "When you put too many ingredients in it, things get complicated."
Family - at home and extended - is what has Mark Wolownik cooking in not one but two family kitchens on his weekend.
When
working, Wolownik, 40, helms the kitchen at Symposium, just off
Centerville Road. At home, he lives in Manheim Township with his wife,
Jennifer, 37, and their daughter, Molly, who just turned 5.
"My off-days," Wolownik, said, "are busy with family."
That
means spending Sundays with his parents, Ray and Kathy, in their Willow
Street home, where Wolownik joins his brother and sister and their
families (and an aunt and uncle or two) for a traditional Sunday
dinner. Wolownik mans the stove, but he has willing assistance.
"Usually,
my father loves to cook," Wolownik said. "My mother gets us started,
and we play around in the kitchen. We do the cooking, so we don't have
to clean up!"
Generations past would smile at the Sunday menu:
"a big roast beef [or] roast pork, mashed potatoes, fresh vegetables."
All of that serves anywhere from "12 to 18 to 20" people, Wolownik said
proudly.
At his own home with wife and daughter, things are simpler.
"We
put our hands in the freezer" to see what's there, Wolownik said, but
that often means Omaha steaks, a frequent holiday and anniversary gift
from Jennifer's parents. That makes a good excuse to grill, year-round.
"My daughter loves it when we go outside and fire up the grill," Wolownik said.
AT HAYDN ZUG'S, in East Petersburg, it's not one but three guys who keep
the restaurant kitchen going. At the home of Executive Chef Byron Kehr,
38, however, there's one caveat: "No fine-dining cooking on the day
off. We order out. Pizza. My kids love pizza."
Sous Chef Dwayne
Spencer, 36, likes grilling. "No dirty dishes," Spencer summed up.
Plus, daughter Koryn, 12½, "loves when I cook for her. She likes it
when I make breakfast food for dinner!"
For Chef de Cuisine
Jason Black, 33, who shares his home with his wife, Karen, 37, time off
is time to experiment "and get my wife to try things, to get her out of
her comfort zone."
But the couple's 5-year-old doesn't get to
enjoy that option. That's because she's a German Shepherd. "She does
not eat table food," Black said.
"It's what I do to relax," said Steve Brown, 45, owner of Ephrata's Lily's on Main, of cooking at his own place.
"It's not as relaxing on the job!"
During
the summer, he lives for his outdoor grill, where chicken, fish or
steak are staples, "always with grilled vegetables" and always
garnished with roasted peppers, which he gets from a local farmer's
market.
In winter, Sunday family dinners are the order of the
day, with wife Karen, 47, daughters, Lily, 12, and Olivia, 10, and son
David, 6. Again simplicity is king of the kitchen: spaghetti with
homemade meatballs "or chicken broccoli pesto pasta." Yes, Brown's
children eat broccoli. "My kids are terrific eaters!" he enthused.
recipes from Chef John Martin follow:
JAMAICAN PEPPER STEAK
2 pounds sirloin beef, cubed
2 bell peppers, cut in half (see notes below)
2 onions, cut in half (see notes below)
2 tablespoons minced garlic, available in a jar
1 tablespoon jerk seasoning
1 dash hot sauce
½ cup brown sugar
½ cup vinegar
Salt and pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons butter
Put all ingredients in pot except flour and butter. Let simmer 45 minutes over low-to-medium heat until all liquid is released.
Combine butter and flour to make a roux. Thicken stew and let simmer for 30 minutes on low heat. Serve over rice or noodles.
Notes:
For the peppers, Martin said it's OK to use "red, green, yellow -
whatever you want for flavor." If hot peppers are preferred, that's
fine, too, Martin said.
As for the onions, he likes Vidalias, but said cooks are welcome to use "any kind they want" when it comes to type and size.
CHEF JOHN'S MEATLOAF
5 pounds ground beef
½ cup chopped onion
½ cup chopped peppers
1 cup stuffing mix
3 eggs
¼ cup brown sugar
1 tablespoon fresh garlic
1 tablespoon coriander
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 cup barbecue sauce
¼ cup ketchup
Mix all ingredients into a loaf.
Cook meatloaf for 1½ hours at 350 F. Top finished loaf with barbecue sauce and ketchup.
SEARED SOCKEYE SALMON WITH WHEAT BULGAR RICE, PESTO AND PINE NUTS
1 box Near East wheat pilaf
¼ cup pine nuts
2 tablespoons pesto
Salt, paprika, pepper and parsley, to taste
2 tablespoons oil
2 sockeye salmons filets
Follow box instructions for pilaf. Add pine nuts, pesto, salt, paprika, pepper, parsley and oil.
Heat pan until almost smoking. Sear salmon for two minutes each side. Serve with pilaf.
JARLSBERG & CHEDDAR MACARONI AND CHEESE
1 quart half-and-half
1 (12-ounce) can evaporated milk (Do not use sweetened condensed milk)
2 eggs
1 tablespoon flour
1 tablespoon butter
5 ounces Jarlsberg cheese, grated
½ pounds Colby cheese, grated
1 tablespoon mustard
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 box macaroni noodles
Mix
together half-and-half, can of milk and eggs. Bring up slowly over low
heat; stir. Mix flour and butter in a separate container; add to milk
mixture. Add cheeses and all spices. Cook macaroni and let cool. Pour
cheese sauce over pasta and bake at 350 F for 1 hour.
PINEAPPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE
¼ pounds butter
1 cup brown sugar
1 can crushed pineapple
1 box yellow cake mix
In a medium cast-iron skillet on stove top, melt butter and brown sugar, then add pineapple.
Follow
box instructions for cake mix. Preheat oven to 350 F. Pour cake batter
into skillet and bake in oven for 55 minutes. Remove from oven; turn
out onto plate.
Stephen Kopfinger is a Sunday News staff writer.